Longevity brings credibility – especially in Seaford

My scribblings on this page have attracted a small, yet enthusiastic army of locals who kindly take the time to expand my dining horizons. One card-carrying member of that group is none other than Jack Riddle, esteemed Rotarian, and president and chief lending officer of Community Bank Delaware. In fact, among his many accomplishments, he was just recognized with the 2023 Sussex County Distinguished Citizen Award by the Delmarva Council of the Boy Scouts of America. In addition to his status as a distinguished citizen, this Seaford native is also an expert on the financial ins and outs of this business of eating – with an accent on the “business” part. So I’ve learned to listen to this guy.

After 22 years of writing, kvetching, opining, photographing and chattering about what and where we eat here at the beach, few things surprise me. But from time to time there is an exception, and one of those is Bon Appétit restaurant in … wait for it … Seaford. Nothing against the quaint burg of Seaford, of course, but it’s simply not a place where one would immediately expect to find such a well-run, fine-dining French eatery. From the moment several years ago when we humbly shadowed Jack and Susan Riddle into the restaurant to our most recent visit, everything has been perfectly executed.

Proprietors Karen and Chino Pedemonte are no strangers to this business of eating. They met on the job at a restaurant in New York where Chino had started as a dishwasher. Karen was a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. They purchased Bon Appétit in 1991, and though the theme is decidedly French, Chef Chino blends German, Incan, Chinese, Japanese and Swiss influences into his cuisine. He works only with the assistance of his sous chef, and if he isn’t able to work, the restaurant does not open. A guarantee of consistency if there ever was one.

Karen’s bailiwick is front of house (i.e., the dining room), and she’s all about the details. From the fresh flowers to the crisp napkins to keeping water glasses and bread baskets filled, she works seamlessly alongside her seasoned waitstaff. And wait ‘til you see the vintage French prints and pin-ups that decorate this understated bistro.

On that recent night, Bon Appétit was featuring a five-course prix fixe special. No, these weren’t “tasting” portions or a few selected low-cost items; the very reasonable price tag included the specials du jour along with pretty much everything on the menu. Quite a bargain considering that the typical per-person ticket in a big-city French restaurant can easily exceed $150 – with portions half the size of those we enjoyed in Seaford.

We started with artichoke crostini, a choice engraved in stone after perusing the online menu. Artichoke hearts are perched on toasted French bread and enrobed in warm Parmesan cheese sauce. There are no words (I know; for me that’s a welcome rarity). Sautéed oysters in garlic butter followed. Another silent moment on my part.

On our first visit, the chicken empanadas appetizer was one of the specials and reminded us that it’s not all francophilic there at 312 High St. in Seaford. But rather than the traditional fried version, Bon Appétit’s were encased in a light and flaky puff pastry. After the salad course was devoured, our entrees included a perfectly grilled-to-temperature Black Angus New York strip decorated with sautéed scallions, baked salmon with dill white wine sauce, and crispy, slow-roasted duckling drizzled with a deliciously dark, ruby-hued fig sauce. Everything was top-notch and something I would easily expect in any big-city eatery.

The Pedemontes have been operating Bon Appétit for well over 30 years, so they must be doing something right. It’s no mystery that that something is onsite ownership, combined with tireless dedication, skill, patience and an uncanny focus on customer service that keeps guests coming back year after year. Reservations are a must. Check out their hours and the menus at bonappetitseaford.net, then call 302-629-3700. It’s well worth the drive.