Restaurant success hinges on owner involvement

Step inside Mariachi restaurant and, if you’re lucky, Yolanda Pineda will be there with open arms and her signature greeting: “Mi casa es su casa!” And she means it. Yolanda is among the handful of downtown Rehoboth restaurant owners who are regarded as just plain likeable. It might be their cuisine, it might be the service, it might be their personality - but you’d be hard pressed to hear anything bad about these hardworking people.

As the owner of Mariachi restaurant on Wilmington Avenue, she is no stranger to Mexican, Salvadorean and Spanish food. I receive constant feedback that Mariachi is one of the most consistently good places for that sort of food here at the beach. The most obvious key to Mariachi’s longevity is Yolanda’s day-to-day involvement in the operation. She glides from the kitchen to the dining rooms during service; adjusting food on waiters’ trays, stopping by to say hello to regulars, or darting behind the bar to whip up an order of colorful frozen margaritas. Her constant presence is a value added at this two-level facility that sports an ocean view from the upstairs porch.

Yolanda loves to tempt her guests with surprise specials. It might be her paella (when she has time to make it herself), or even a mole dish. Mole is a complex blend of chilies, tomatoes, onions, peanuts, raisins, cinnamon, cumin, dark chocolate … the list goes on and on, and varies from culture to culture. “I will not make it unless I can take my time to do it right,” she warns.

Don’t miss the Queso Fundido con Chorizo, a decadent appetizer casserole of creamy queso topped with crispy chorizo. I should warn you: Though you might start out intending to share, things might not end up that way. All the standard Mexican goodies are on the menu: nachos (creamy cheese and bright green, crispy peppers), quesadillas, guacamole, enchiladas, etc. But why not take advantage of Yolanda’s Salvadorean heritage and her cooking skills! Branch out to the sweetly irresistible platanos (fried plantain with a polite dollop of sour cream), the ceviche (firm white fish marinated in lime juice, onions, peppers and cilantro), and the plump little pupusas, each one lovingly hand-stuffed with flavorful pork and cheese.

Chicken lovers cherish the Pechuga al La Parilla, a boneless breast with lemon and a great sauce. The Spanish specialties are consistent and authentic, including such goodies as beef tongue, trout and sirloin steak. Another tasty dish is the Masitas de Puerco, a deeply savory dish of cubed and seared pork with Spanish rice and beans. Sort of like Carnitas, but with a Spanish accent. Like shrimp? Order the Camarones Cancun. This generous portion of butterflied shrimp arrives at the table accompanied by a fajita-style fanfare of noise and sizzle along with flour tortillas, pinto beans and Yolanda’s wonderful yellow rice. By the way, one of the best-kept secrets in town is Sunday brunch at Mariachi. Scrambled eggs with homemade chorizo. Chorizo eggs Benedict. Yolanda’s handmade pupusas. Lots of mimosas and sangria. What’s not to like?

Surprisingly, in this wonderful whirlwind of pork, chicken and seafood, they have six popular vegetarian dishes, including the Plato Rojo (cheesy chile rellenos, deep fried, of course). Almost makes you forget it’s vegetarian! Last and certainly not least is what might possibly be one of the most delicious desserts in Rehoboth Beach: Yolanda’s Tres Leches cake. Three types of milk are allowed to soak overnight into a vanilla cake which is then slathered with whipped cream and drizzled with caramel. It’s not unusual to see faithful customers picking up whole cakes for birthdays. (Of course, “birthday” could be just an excuse to have your own.)

Mariachi is still open seven days, and it never hurts to call and check their hours (302-227-0115). By the way, if you decide you just can’t go even one day without Yolanda’s food, she has a wonderful, huge and airy apartment on the top floor (ocean view both front and back) that is available for rental and/or parties. And dining bliss is only one flight down.