Asparagus has remained a delicacy through the ages

Every year around this time, I find myself writing about asparagus. Good news for spring-vegetable lovers – locally grown asparagus has made an appearance for the season. Nothing compares to the flavor and texture of the asparagus harvested from nearby farms. Be sure to check out the local offerings at the Historic Lewes Farmers Market when it opens Saturday, May 3.

In addition to its unique flavor, asparagus has been held in high regard since ancient times for its healing and cleansing properties. Loaded with antioxidants, folic acid and valuable micronutrients, asparagus was prized more than 2,500 years ago by the Greeks and Egyptians. First-century Romans froze asparagus to preserve it for future feasts, and Louis XIV cultivated asparagus in his greenhouse for a continuous supply.

While most will agree the quality of freshly picked produce is superior to food that travels long distances before reaching your table, asparagus provides a clear example of why that’s true. As soon as the spears are cut from the crown (the central part of the plant that produces the shoots) they begin to lignify, depositing fibrous cellulose compounds in their cell walls. 

You can readily see this if you examine a bundle of asparagus that’s been in the grocery for any length of time; the cut edge of the stalks will appear whitish and woody instead of moist and green. In addition, whether or not the store has kept them sitting in water, the very base of the stalks will appear dried out and brownish.

The ideal situation is to prepare the asparagus as soon as you bring it home. If that isn’t possible, trim about one-half inch from the base of the stalks, set them upright in a container with an inch of water, and keep in the refrigerator until you’re ready to use them. Once you’re set to cook, there’s one quick step to prepping the stalks.

A common technique for trimming asparagus is to hold the top in one hand, the base in the other hand and bend the spear until it snaps. Kitchen lore says that where it breaks is just above the fibrous section, separating the tender top at the ideal location. Unfortunately, this is not always the case; you can force it to break depending upon where you hold it and how you apply pressure.

The better technique for ensuring you discard the chewy pulp and keep the delicate flesh is to select one stalk and cut it where the white base transitions to green. Look at the cross-section to make sure it’s moist and tight; if you see any dry spots or open pockets, trim it a bit more. Then, line up the rest of the spears and cut them the same length, using this one as the guide.

Peeling or shaving the lower portion of the stalk is another bit of asparagus advice that may not always work. All you’re doing is removing some of the outer flesh, not any of the fibrous interior at the base. And the thickness of the stalk doesn't necessarily indicate freshness (unless it’s spindly and pitted, a sure sign of age). The choice of thin spears or thick should be based on personal preference and how you plan to prepare them.

Slender stalks are best for dishes requiring little or no cooking, such as stir-fry or salad. Save the thicker spears for steaming or roasting, keeping in mind they don’t need much time in the heat to become mushy. If you happen to overcook asparagus, don’t serve it whole; use it chopped in quiche or pureed into soup.

Roasted Asparagus

1 lb fresh asparagus
salt & pepper
2 T olive oil
2 T grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 425 F. Trim the woody ends from the spears. Arrange them in a single layer in a baking pan. Pat dry to make sure there’s no moisture to steam them. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Drizzle with olive oil. Roast for about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese to serve. Yield: 4 servings.

Asparagus Soup

1 T butter
1 chopped onion
2 chopped shallots
1 lb asparagus
1 1/2 C baby spinach 
4 C vegetable stock
1/2 t chopped tarragon
1/8 t grated nutmeg
salt & pepper, to taste

Melt butter in a large saucepan. Add the onion and shallot; cook until wilted. Trim and chop the asparagus into one-inch pieces, discarding any woody stems. Shred the spinach, discarding any stringy stems. Add both to the pan and cook briefly, stirring often. Pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until vegetables are mushy, about 15 minutes. Using a food processor or immersion blender, puree until smooth. Stir in tarragon and nutmeg; adjust seasonings and serve. Yield: 6 servings.