Good Earth Market expands its scope, keeps its spirit

Sue Ryan says, “Eat. Shop. Stay. Party.” I thoroughly agree.

One of the annoying things about the food industry is companies that jump on every passing bandwagon. It’s always something: high protein, low protein, health foods, non-health foods, triple burgers, no triple burgers, fake burgers made out of over-processed veggies and strange chemicals, high fat, low fat, gluten this-or-that (except in the case of an actual medical condition) and all the other fads du jour. As a food writer, I feel obligated to do some research before I knee-jerk into whatever the latest feel-good craze may be. Just because everybody’s doing it, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s anything other than marketing hype, clickbait or hearsay.

Then there are the people who actually stand behind what they promote. They walk the talk by going the extra mile to not only practice what they preach, but also to clearly demonstrate the foundation for whatever benefits might exist, be it better taste or proven health advantages. One of those people is Sue Ryan, proprietor of Good Earth Market and Flavor restaurants in Millville.

When Sue’s parents retired and moved to Bethany Beach, she visited just about every weekend. When it came time for her and her husband to retire, their plan was to simply drop out. That might actually have happened had it not been for Sue’s infectious enthusiasm. This woman could make you excited about an ingrown toenail! And it’s that energy that fuels the friendly, positive attitude at her market and restaurants.

Sue has trouble standing still, and her hands-on passion keeps people coming back to her outdoor garden dining, inside tables and the inviting horseshoe bar (my happy place). Years ago when we first visited, I’ll admit to a bit of trepidation regarding the healthy dining concept. Would they serve me a steamed grape in one of those pho spoons? Or perhaps a piece of kale disguised as a lamb shank? Maybe a rutabaga carved to look like a club sandwich?

None of those things happened. One of my go-to plates is the roasted beet, arugula, feta, greens and red onion salad with a particularly tasty house vinaigrette. It is as beautiful to look at as it is to eat. (Yes. Cool your jets. The Rehoboth Foodie eats vegetables. Sometimes.)  Speaking of eating like a rabbit, I’m also addicted to Sue’s Big ol’ Bowl of Greens to Share. But I don’t share it. I blame the generous chunks of blue cheese and the perfectly seasoned crostini.

Other favorites of my little entourage of foodies and foodettes are the duck meatballs decorated with whipped goat cheese and spiced cranberry. Being a carnivore, I also can’t get past the root beer-braised short ribs. This impressive platter marches out of the kitchen enrobed in a coffee rub accompanied by sautéed veggies over grits. Crab cakes, shrimp, salmon and scallops round out the menu. Our slightly (only slightly) more health-conscious friends love the pan-seared scallops drizzled with a black garlic vinaigrette. One of the stars of that show is the shrimp & grits with spicy chorizo on a bed of mirepoix (a New Orleans mix of diced onion, celery and carrot slow-cooked in butter or some savory fat). We shared. I hate sharing. I got over it.

Several years ago, Good Earth Market was joined by Millville’s popular Dickens Parlour Theatre. The new building sports spacious seating, state-of-the-art lighting and abundant free parking. The theater offers entertainment that includes world-class magicians, choral and musical offerings, lectures of local interest, and even a Sunday jazz brunch with live music.

Did I mention that Sue has trouble standing still? Just about a month ago, she opened a second eatery inside the theater. Flavor restaurant is billed as “over-the-top gourmet burgers, milkshakes and fun.” Show tickets are not required to dine, and the restaurant is open regardless of the entertainment schedule.

Dickens Parlour Theatre, Good Earth and Flavor are located just west of Roxana Road (Route 17) on the south side of Route 26. Check out the shows at dickensparlourtheatre.com/tickets, or make reservations for Good Earth by calling 302-537-7100. You can dine over the top at Flavor by going to Flavor.Restaurant. Good Earth is open Sundays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. for brunch, and nightly from 5 to 9 p.m. for dinner. Flavor is open seven days in-season from 3:30 to 9 p.m.